This beautiful patchwork quilt is so simple to make using a hand tufting technique. It's really warm and perfect for snuggling up under on chilly winter evenings!
You will need…
1. Download and print the 'Patchwork Throw Layout Guide' from www.yourhomemagazine.co.uk or send a stamped SAE to Your Home CME 18 Patchwork Throw Layout Guide, HBMUK, The Tower, Phoenix Square, Colchester, Essex, CO4 9HU. Cut 100 22cm x 22cm squares in total from your three fabrics: 24 from green fabric, 26 from red fabric and 50 from beige fabric.
2. Make your first row. Using the layout template as a guide, pin your first row of 10 squares together, working on one at a time with right sides facing. Once you've pinned a row together, sew a 1cm seam along each pinned edge to form a complete sewn strip measuring 1 square deep and 10 squares in length. Remove all the pins. Press each seam open with an iron.
3. Piece all the rows together. Continue to use the layout template to make the remaining 9 rows as in step 2. Once you have sew all 10 rows, pin each row together with right sides facing, then sew a 1cm seam to join each row. Remove all the pins. Press each seam open with an iron.
4. Sandwich the quilt together. Lay the patchwork on the floor with the wrong side up, lay a piece of quilt batting on top and trim it to the same size as the patchwork. Lay a piece of lining fabric on top of the batting right side up and trim to the same size as the patchwork (you may have to stitch two lengths of lining fabric together to get the correct size). Use large safety pins around the edges and across the centre of the piece to pin through all three layers. Work carefully to ensure you do not pucker the fabric. Turn the piece over so the right side of the patchwork is facing up.
5. Tuft the quilt. Use a needle and embroidery floss to make a tufting stitch in the centre of a beige square. Working from the right side, push the needle through all three layers leaving the tail of the thread on the right side, then come back up to the right side about 3mm from where you first entered. Tie the ends of the thread in a double knot and trim the ends to 2cm long. Continue until you have tied a tufting stitch in every beige square.
6. Bind the edges. Run your bias binding along the perimeter of your quilt to ensure you won’t have any seams falling in the corners. If you do, move the binding up or down a few inches to avoid seams at the corners. Starting 15-20cm away from the corner, place your binding on the front side of the quilt and leave a tail of 15-20cm. Line up the raw edges of the binding with the edge of your quilt. The folded edge should be facing toward the quilt. Pin into place. Stitch the binding onto the front of the quilt using a 5mm seam allowance. Use a walking foot or even-feed foot if possible.
7. Make the mitred corners. When you get to a corner, stop stitching 5mm away from the corner and sew off the corner. Take the quilt off the machine and fold the binding up and away from the quilt. Keep the edge of the binding in line with the edge of the quilt. Bring the binding back down, creating a tuck of fabric underneath. This will form the mitre on the front of the quilt.
8. Starting from the edge of the quilt, stitch the next side of binding down until you reach the next corner and repeat this process for all four corners. For a really neat mitred corner, snip off the tip of the corners. The entire snip should be about 5mm across, and should not come too close to your seams. Do this on all four corners of the quilt. When you turn your binding around to the back of the quilt, this will help the corners poke out nicely because you’ve removed any extra bulk.
9. Join the ends of the quilt binding. Stop stitching 15-20cm before you reach where you started, leaving a tail of binding. Trim off the excess, leaving a few centimetres of overlap to work with. Open up the end of binding and place the beginning tail inside it. Using the cut and angled end as a guide, lightly mark a line right up next to it. Then cut 5mm away from this measurement to account for seam allowances on both ends. Pin the ends. Put the two tail ends right sides together, and sew with 5mm seam to complete the continuous loop of binding.
10. Close up the binding and finish stitching it down on the front of the quilt. You are now ready to finish stitching the binding down on the back of the quilt.
11. Stitch the binding on the back of your quilt. Use a bobbin thread that matches your quilt front and a top thread that matches the binding. Begin stitching on any side, about halfway down one side of the quilt. Use your fingers to guide the binding just over top of the previous stitch line, so it completely covers that stitch line. Stitch until you are 5mm from a corner. Stop, backstitch and cut the threads.Use your fingers to press the corner down and to the right, and then fold it back on itself (to the left) to make a mitred corner. Pinch the mitre in place as you carefully move the quilt back to your sewing machine.Lower the needle directly into the mitred corner, where the binding fabrics meet. Backstitch, then stitch forward. Again, guide the binding with your fingers, making sure the binding covers the previous stitch line completely. When you get to the last side of the quilt, sew slightly over where you started, and backstitch to completely close the binding.
12. Make the pompoms. Use a pompom maker and red yarn to make four large pompoms, following the manufacturer's instructions. Hand stitch one pompom to each corner of the quilt. Your quilt is now complete and ready to snuggle up under.
Find out how to make our three festive cushions on page 82 of this year's Christmas Made Easy magazine, on sale now for just £3.99, in all good newsagents and supermarkets.
Feature, project and styling Anna-Lisa De'Ath
Photo Lizzie Orme